Changabang Base Camp and Dharansi Pass

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival at Joshimath
Drive to Joshimath. Check into Himalayan Abode Homestay at Marwari Village. You can also upgrade your accommodation and choose to stay at Auli on this day.

Day 2: Tapovan – Lata Village
Drive: 12kms | Trek: 1.5kms
Drive to Lata Village and trek to Lata Village (2370mts). This is a short day hike and the gateway to the core of Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Stay in Lata Village, interact with villagers who have been the closest inhabitants near Nanda Devi Sanctuary for ages. The village outskirts are covered by apple, apricot and walnut orchards. There are some really colorful and amazing traditional houses in Lata Village that will transport you to a different timezone. Do visit Nanda Devi Temple at Lata Village before commencing the trek.

Day 3: Lata Village to LataKharak
Trek: 9kms
The trail from Lata Village goes through Bhelta which marks 4kms into the uphill climb via pine and cedar trees. Bhelta is located at 2850mts above sea level. There is a small cave with a small flat ground surrounding it, good enough to pitch 2 tents. In terms of views, this is not a promising campsite but its proximity to water source makes it an emergency campsite one can rely on.

From Bhelta the route climbs up via pine forest over stone route and after a few zig zag steep incline the route takes us over loose rocks. As we climb, Dhauliganga looks miniature and more mountains come into sight. At 3800mts LataKharak offers a unique landscape with Rhododendron and birch trees in its vicinity and sheer drop to Dhauliganga River on the other side.

 

The peaks visible fromLataKharak are BethartoliHimal, Nanda Ghunti, Ronti, and HathiParvat. You’ll also rejoice to identify the route of Kuari Pass to Dhak from this point.

Note: Generally, it is not advisable to do this trekking stretch in one day itself because the distance may be just 9kms but the altitude gain is of around 1500mts which will be too much for some to handle without dealing with the signs of AMS. But since we will be pretty well acclimatized after spending 9 good days in high altitude Himalayan range, it is acceptable for us with this ChhotaVanvaas itinerary.

Day 4: Lata Kharak to Dharansi Pass Camp
Trek: 10kms
Starting early on high altitude trek is always as the weather gets upredictable in the afternoon and the peaks get clouds cover. Start the uphill climb onwards to Jhandidhaar which is seen from Lata Kharak Campsite. 1km into the trek will lead to a diversion, the right side leads to Saini Kharak, we keep following the ridge and after a while you’ll see the tree line leaving you behind. As you near the Jhandidhar the cairns on the top will become visible. The views change drastically as soon as you reach Jhandidhar mainly because the peaks which were hiding earlier now becomes visible with an interesting perspective, specially of Dronagiri, Chaukhamba, Hathi and Ghori Peaks.

 

The diversion of route on the left at Jhandidhar leads to Tolma village where as the route to connecting ridge from here leads to Dharansi Pass (4300mts). It is another 2kms uphill hike on loose boulders and rock slabs to reach Dharansi Pass. Focus on every step while navigating this stretch is essential, if not careful one may twist the ankle.

Dharansi Pass Camp is exposed to cold wind gushes and hence it is advised to pitch the tent in a safe spot under good weather conditions only.

Day 5: Dharansi Pass Camp – Debrugheta – Dharansi Pass Camp
Trek: 14kms
Debrugheta marks the boundary of Inner Nanda Devi Sanctuary which is forbidden to venture into. This is as far as you can go near the goddess peak of Nanda Devi and on 11^th Day of the trek you’ll be blessed to have achieved this stunning feat. The incline over steep overhanging ridge is daunting and would require caution at every step you take. Thankfully with a fixed campsite at Dharansi Pass, you’ll just have to keep a day pack with water, lunch, an extra clothing layer and first aid. Right before reaching the pastureland of Debrugheta you’ll have to descend down close to 700mtr to reach the elevation of 3600mts. After getting to the core and taking pictures of Nanda Devi Peak, start hiking back to Dharansi.

Fact Check: Only 500 seasoned trekkers are allowed to enter the core zone uptoDharansi Pass every year from May to October.

Day 6: Dharansi Pass Camp – Hitoli
Trek: 12kms

We trek all the way down to Jhandidhar and divert the route towards Tolma intersection to the vegetation and treeline. Couple of kilometers from JhandiDhar we will reach the campsite of Hitoli.

Day 7: Hitoli – SuraiThotha – Jumma
Trek: 8kms | Drive: 14kms
Trek down from Hitoli to Tolma Village through the shades of old and wise deodar trees. You’ll reach Tolma Village after trekking for 5kms and further walk down 3kms to reach SuraiThotharoadhead. Hop into the cab and drive to Jumma. Jumma is the last roadhead for Bagini Glacier Trek, the road however further leads to Malari Village and Niti Valley.

+ 01 Buffer Day for Acclimatization to be utilized in between the above mentioned itinerary.

Day 9: Jumma – Dronagiri Village
Trek: 11kms
In the morning after breakfast drive to Jumma and trek up to Ruing village and, Enroute we will cross the dense pine and deodar forest, flowering Himalayan village meadow, waterfalls.

Dronagiri is known for its closeness to the nation‘s most revered epic- The Ramayana. It is believed that Hanuman visited this region in search of Sanjeevani and lifted off a mountain adjacent to Dunagiriparvat. There is a delicate landslide intersection on this day’s trail. Dronagiri Village (3600mts) is the last village en route Bagini Glacier. You can either stay in a homestay here or camp beyond the outskirts of village.

Day 10: Dronagiri Village– Bagini Glacier Base Camp
Trek: 10kms
Begin the trek from Dronagiri Village to cross the Bagini Stream over a cemented bridge and follow the trail on right towards Langatoli. An alternate trail from here reaches out to KanariKhal which we will take a detour of while returning (if required). The route Langatoli exposes you to beautiful wild flowers carpeted below and offers the views of staggering peaks of Trisuli, Hardeol and Dunagiri.

We continue following the Bagini River and climb towards the moraine ridges on the left to reach Bagini Glacier Base Camp. Since we will be camping at 4480mts above sea level, it is advised to walk around the campsite probably to the nearby higher grounds in the evening while capturing the golden lit Himalayan peaks, the process will also help in acclimatization.

Day 11: Bagini Glacier Base Camp – Rishi Kund View Point – Changabang Base Camp
Trek: 6kms
We start with the approach of dawn to towards Changabang Base Camp which will be the campsite for today. To watch the golden lit mountains will be our task of the day. The trek on the upper ridges on the Bagini Glacier leads to Changabang Base Camp which is a vast meadow and a gorgeous campsite opening up the view of Kalanka, Rishi Pahad, Hardeol and Changabang upfront.

We leave the bags at Changabang Base Camp and proceed towards the view point ridge of Rishi Kund to witness the shining mountain – Changabang (6864mts). After exploring this region, we return to Changabang Base Camp. In the evening it is recommended to climb a higher ridge to witness the peaks changing colors during sunset but you can also sit and relax writing your travelogue or reading a book.

Day 12: Changabang Base Camp – Shem Campsite
Trek: 11kms
Trek back towards Langatoli and divert on right towards Shem Campsite before crossing the bridge over Bagini River that leads to Dronagiri Village. This excursion will add a day to Shem Campsite and then end the trek at Jumma via Garpak Village.

You can skip this day if we have used a buffer day to use during bad weather scenario or if you are too tired after continues high altitude hiking during this ChhotaVanvaas. But if you continue you will have another rewarding view from KanariKhal the next day.

Note: We can return via Dronagiri Village to Ruing and end the trek a day early if need be or if we have used the buffer day in between. The decision can be taken while you are on the trek.

Day 13: Shem Campsite – KanariKhal–Garpak Village
Trek: 13kms
Start early through the steep alpine ridge towards KanariKhal to climb the pass at 4100mts. As KanariKhal comes into sight, it starts misleading. The zig-zag path continues but the view remains stagnant as if you are not getting near the pass. From the pass you’ll see the aerial view of Dunagiri Village and a stunning view of Dunagiri and PurbiDunagiri will come into sight. We get down from the pass towards the small village of Garpak.

Day 14: GarpakVillage – Ruing – Jumma – Joshimath
Trek: 8kms | Drive: 41kms
Trek down from Garpak Village to Ruing and thereon to Jumma to reach the roadhead. Drive back to Joshimath, stop over at Tapovan if you need a well deserved hot bath in the natural thermal springs.

Day 15: Joshimath to Rishikesh/Dehradun
Drive: 253kms
Drive back to Rishikesh or Dehradun to end the Chhota Vanvaas.